Saturday, November 25, 2017

Charming Charleston

Between the diapers and feedings and overall exhaustion, I’ve been day dreaming about our last vacation. It feels like a lifetime ago, but back in the spring, K and I were celebrating a trifecta: our third wedding anniversary, his 27th birthday, and a babymoon (all the unpleasant first trimester symptoms had finally disappeared and traveling with the baby simply meant getting myself places) in Charleston, South Carolina. Founded in 1670 as Charles Town, South Carolina’s largest and oldest city has retained its true Southern charm over the last 340 years, and it did not disappoint. Nestled on a peninsula, cobblestone streets, rod iron gates, and neatly packed houses reflect old Southern charm & hospitality, and the city has something for everyone – history, nature, architecture, good eats, and shopping; it’s easy to fall in love with Charleston.

Explore Historic Downtown

One of the things K and I love to do in a new city is a walking tour. Sometimes we partner the walking with eating [like we did in Seattle]. Other times we opt for a free excursion [like we did in Munich]; it really just depends what the local cuisine is and what we’ve budgeted for while we’re away.


Early in the morning, before the sun was too high and the sea breeze was still blowing, our tour of Charleston (courtesy of Free Tours by Foot) started at St. Phillip’s Episcopal Church and its neighboring cemetery. St. Phillip’s is the oldest congregation in the city and is the final resting place of several familiar names. The tour continued past the French Huguenot Church, the Charleston City Market (formerly the Slave Mart – a misnomer as slaves were not sold here, but it’s where they would go to shop for produce, fish, meat, etc.), the Dock Street Theater, and the Old Exchange Building. Our guide was knowledgeable about the city’s history and added a few bonus stops along the way, before finishing the tour with a stroll along picturesque Rainbow Row. Pro Tip: Use the free DASH Trolley to hop-on & hop-off during your time in the Lower Peninsula when you are hot and/or need to give your feet a break. 

Stroll the Water Front

Situated on the shores of the Cooper River, Waterfront Park is a lovely area to stroll in the afternoon. Dotted with mature trees, and home of the popular pineapple fountain, the park offers eight acres to view Charleston Harbor, the Ravenel Bridge, and the USS Yorktown. There’s even a long, covered pier where you and your honey can snuggle up on a porch swing and watch the dolphins in the harbor and the listen to the seagulls call to one another.


Ferry to Fort Sumter

Located in Charleston Harbor, Ft Sumter is an important piece of American history; it’s where the American Civil War began. I love history, and I was really excited to venture out to the island. The fort is only accessible by boat and tours include a very educational 30 min ferry ride en route to the historic landmark. Once you disembark at the fort, you have the option of immediately venturing out on your own, or spending a few minutes listening to a park ranger recap the events surrounding the start of America’s deadliest war. We chose the latter.


Get Out of Town

Plantations

Charleston’s history and traditions cannot be separated from its sordid ties to slavery in America. The growth and wealth of the southern town was and is linked to the cultivation of rice, indigo, and other crops at the expense of human suffering; walking among the trees and serene gardens of the Low country, visitors are forced to come face to face with the dichotomy of the South’s charm and beauty and the dark reality of how plantations were run. That being said, Charleston’s remaining plantations serve as a reminder of how far we’ve come and offer a way to understand how the south functioned prior to the Civil War.
There are several plantations worth visiting if you find yourself venturing out of the Peninsula: Magnolia Plantation & Gardens, Middleton Place, Drayton Hall, & Boone Hall Plantation all offer a striking window into the past. We only had one day where we ventured out of the historic city, and so we chose to visit Magnolia Plantation & Gardens – one of the first rice plantations on the Ashley River. With an on-site zoo, black water swamps, preserved slave quarters, and optional train tour, today, Magnolia is bustling with life.


Angel Oak Tree

Estimated to be between 400-500 years old, the Angel Oak tree is located just ten miles from Charleston on John’s Island. Standing nearly seventy feet tall, a visit to the Southern Live Oak is both free and totally worth the stop if you venture out of the city. Once you see it in person, it’s easy to understand why it’s one of the most photographed attractions in South Carolina; it truly is a testament to Mother Nature – it’s believed to be one of the oldest living things in the United States!


Folly Beach

One of Charleston’s best summer attractions is it’s beaches; there are several to choose from – Folly Beach, Sullivan’s Island, Kiawah Island, and Isle of Palms – with each offering their own atmosphere and escape from the humidity and heat. Affectionately called “The Edge of America,” we ventured out to Folly Beach. A distinct beach town, there are numerous restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops along Center Street, and there’s even a fun lighthouse at the northeast end of the island to take some lovely photos. Parking is limited, as you’d expect on an island, but we were lucky enough to snag a free spot down a side street and spent our final Charleston afternoon laying in the sand and soaking up the Southern sun.


Eat Something Everything

Whenever you find yourself in a town, region, or country known for its cuisine, it is expected that you’re going to stuff your face with delicious food. Charleston is no different. In preparation for our trip, I did a lot of research on places to eat (there are few circumstances I find more annoying than being in an unfamiliar place and being unable to decide on where to eat because you don’t know the area or what’s good), especially since we always have to be on the lookout for Gluten Free menu options to accommodate K. Here’s a list of our favorite eats while in Charleston, South Carolina:

Brown Dog Deli: Hip sandwich shop with a new take on old classics using fresh, local ingredients; gluten free bread available upon request for ALL sandwiches! Located around the corner from Rainbow Row, this place gets busy during lunch. Pro Tip: They deliver. 

Belgian Gelato: Hands down, our favorite dessert stop. Conveniently located by the Waterfront Pier, we happily stopped in before snuggling up under a shaded tree in the park. A combination of traditional Italian gelato paired with the flavors of Belgian chocolate. So good! 

Cory's Grilled Cheese: Originally a food truck, the concept behind Cory’s is pretty simple… build-your-own grilled cheese (or pick a pre-made concoction off their menu)! Although not technically in Charleston, this John’s Island restaurant made the list with their Gluten Free bread option and was a must during our day outside the city. Pro Tip: They also serve breakfast.

Breizh Ban Crepes: Owned and operated by a husband and wife duo that hails from France, this little creperie brings a taste of France to the South. They serve omelets, salads, cakes, and (of course) crepes – both savory & sweet! Another gluten free friendly restaurant, they offer buckwheat crepes upon request, and it was a lovely place for us to grab breakfast early one morning. 

[Any] BBQ: This is less of a specific recommendation, and simply a statement regarding Carolina BBQ. Eat it. No matter where you end up, you likely can’t go wrong! If you find yourself with a craving, just pull out that handy smart phone and do a quick search for BBQ joints in the area. Honestly, you should probably have some BBQ every day – there are plenty of BBQ joints to choose from!


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